The Dampener

I was hoping for this to be the final step in the construction. After finishing building and assembling the dampener bar, it proved to not work as I intended. More details will come on that later. So I have to go back and figure out some alterations to make to the way the dampener moves in order to get it working properly. So yeah, still not done. But in the meantime here is the post on building the dampener version 1.

Right off the bat I had do a pretty drastic modification to my frame. I had to cut the A-frame completely in half right down the center. This had to be done in order to drill parts into the sides of the struts on the A-frame. If they're connected there physically isn't enough room to fit a drill in there to drill guide holes for screws. It all worked out because the A-frame already had bolt hole locations where it attaches to the lower part of the frame, so the bolt holes still line up, there's just a little slit at each end of the board.

The first item I had to drill into the struts were these 2 little blocks that sit directly over the center of the pedal. These blocks will support the spring mechanism for the dampener and pedal. 

This is the spring I ended up buying on Amazon. 

I got lazy with the pictures for the rest of this. I just took pictures of all the parts after I finished it. The next part is the actual dampener bar, but the structural portion without any padding on yet. It's made from a 3/4" square aluminum tube. The wood blocks at the ends are what connect the ends of the bar to the A-frame to give it support. These are also hinged where they connect with the A-frame to allow the bar to rotate downward. In the middle is the spring mechanism. 

Here's a close up of the spring mechanism and how it's assembled. It works using an eyebolt holding the spring in place with a metal plate. The pedal will be connected to the hook of the eyebolt. The eyebolt is bolted into the square tube. When you push the pedal down, it pulls the whole bar down on the spring and compresses it. The rubber washer is there to eliminate noise from metal hitting against metal. adjusting the wingnut will allow you to raise or lower the resting position (pedal up) of the dampener. 

Here are some pictures of the dampener installed in the frame.

Next I connected the pedal to the spring mechanism with leftover square aluminum tube. It's hinged at the bottom where it connects to the actual pedal. At the top is a hook and eye turnbuckle which will allow you to raise and lower the resting position of the pedal to your preference or if you adjust the height of the whole instrument. 

At the top of the dampener square tube I riveted a long piece of flat aluminum bar. This is what the padding will be attached to. 

For the padding I bought carpet padding and black felt. The carpet padding is glued to the flat aluminum bar with epoxy. I then wrapped the felt completely over the flat bar and carpet padding and glued it to the undersides of the flat bar with epoxy. 

Technically the whole vibraphone should be done at this point, but when I put the keys back on, the weight of the keys caused the bar to sit too far forward and therefore not allow the accidental keys to be dampened enough. Also the whole bar sits too high and doesn't never fully leaves contact with the keys when the pedal is pressed. On the brighter side, with the keys off, the pedal behaves properly and the padding actually dampens the keys properly (at the least the keys it has full contact with). I have to go back and make adjustments to the default position of the dampener bar. Hopefully that isn't too challenging.